Sun 15
⁃ Switchback Ck Campground Cabin (vía TN 91)
Since it was expected to be cold and drizzly today—and more importantly tonight—combined with wanting to make sure we didn’t miss the pickup for the aqua blaze, we’re staying at a campground cabin near TN 91.
Mon 16
⁃ Stay at Boots off Hostel
Aqua Blaze was great. Did it with Shiitake and Rabbit Foot.
Tue 17
⁃ Camp near Stream (1786.5)
Wed 18
⁃ Stay at Mountain Harbor BnB (1803.1)
Mountain Harbor has been rated the best breakfast on trail for the past several years. However, there have been reports that they’ll only do it if they have enough people or if there’s guests in the BnB, according to other hikers and some comments on FarOut. Thankfully, both are the case tonight, so we’re gonna get the breakfast tomorrow morning!
—
While at the hostel, I picked up a pair of Lone Peak all weather high tops in my size (10.5), which I’m going to switch to since the tread on my mont Blancs has basically fallen off, and there’s even a little tongue that flaps while I walk.
I’m planning to use them to see what shoes to get with the warranty coupon altra gave me for my current shoes falling apart. Also, the high tops and waterproofing should help keep my feet a little bit warmer with the cooler weather ahead.
Thu 19
⁃ Stay at Clyde Smith Shelter (1827.9)
Can confirm, the Mountain Harbor breakfast was great! The selection was utterly impressive. The tomato pie and the French toast were probably my favorite parts, with the soufflé and monkey bread being the runners up.
Fri 20
⁃ Stay at Uncle Johnny’s (1854.2)
Eew. The shower at UJ’s was the stuff of nightmares. Decided not to shower bc of how sketchy it was.
While pulling stuff to shower though, I realized I left my small face/body wash bottle at mountain harbor. Oops. I guess my bag is lighter without it, but I did like the bottle it was in :(.
—
I’m definitely glad we pushed to do this section in two days, and that we were out of the high elevation of the Roan Highlands before the storm hit.
There were some pretty intense winds and it even hailed. The rain mits were invaluable with the wet, cold, and windy conditions, and helped make it almost pleasant—so long as I kept moving.
Sat 21
⁃ c View of Bald Mtn (1871.6)
I was originally planning to stay at the Bald Mtn Shelter, but decided last minute to push on to try and catch a sunset from Bald Mountain or the view before it, then stealth camp.
—
Wow, the muggles (thru hiker slang for non thru hikers, in case you were unable) I met up here are insufferable. They claimed the main tent site near the view of bald mtn, and when I asked if I could pitch my tent between theirs on the packed earth (there was 6-8 ft between them, plenty of space for my small tent), they pointed to a quite slanted, quite unlevel section of earth, with branches about 2 feet off the ground and said, “could you set up over there?”
Uhh, no, I basically just asked a rhetorical question to be nice, and I’d rather put it on actual packed earth instead of on top of a bunch of roots.” Is what I’d like to have said, but instead I put my nicest face on that I could, said thanks, and kicked out a spot in the soft, weedy and thorny soil just past the terrible spot they recommended.
After setting up my tent, I finally got to go see that sunset I came up here for. It was mostly blocked by bald Mtn, but I could at least see some nice colors above the next two ridges. I also saw a few tiny stealth sites with decent wind protection that I should’ve just set up at when I saw the muggles in the main site. Too late now though, since my tent is already up at the edge of the site shared with them.
Sun 22
⁃ Stay at Hogback Ridge Shelter (1881.1)
Some muggles are great. In contrast to the ones I dealt with yesterday, the ones I met as I was walking into the shelter tonight, they said they saw me coming and left the fire going for me (this is as I was arriving at the shelter around 9:00 pm). And to top it off, they were all camping, so I had the shelter to myself! So I get a fire, wood, and a shelter to myself. Thank you! Y’all are great.
Mon 23
⁃ Stay at Little Laurel Shelter (1903.9)
Tues 24
⁃ Stay at Laughing Heart Hostel
Wed 25
⁃ Stay at Laughing Heart Hostel (Zero)
Thu 26
⁃ Roaring Fork Shelter (1941.4)
Fri 27
⁃ Camp at Cosby Knob Shelter (1967.3)
Watched part of a beautiful sunset from the Mt. Cammerer lookout. Even more impressively though, I had the lookout all to myself.
I’d initially planned to stop at the Davenport Gap shelter tonight, but decided to push to the Cosby Knob shelter (like shiitake was planning to) since I was feeling good, and was hoping to make it through the smokies quickly, in fear of bad/cold weather causing rolling in.
—
I saw shiitake and rabbit foot stopped for lunch while walking up to Standing Bear Farm, and asked if they’d like anything while I’m up there. Rabbit foot said he stopped earlier and “didn’t see a soul.” Shiitake asked for a coke.
Shiitake didn’t realize there’s a 3500 ft climb up into the smokes before the Cosby knob shelter (where we’re both planning to stay), when she asked, but I think it’ll be even more amusing to deliver it to her anyway.
—
After watching the sunset and doing a few miles of night hiking, i finally made it to the shelter. While in the smokies, we’re supposed to only tent when the shelter is full. Shiitake and I decided the shelter was full—of mice—and decided to tent. The tent spots are pretty limited, but shiitake managed to get a nice flat one in front of the privy, while I camped on a level but root filled one right by the bear cables (hopefully we dont have a hungry visitor in the night :/).
Sat 28
⁃ Camp at Icewater Spring Shelter (1987.6)
It was pretty hazy today. Not sure if it’s from wildfire smoke or from moisture.
—
The shelter tonight was completely full, with 6-8 tents set up around it as well. Even worse, the privy was closed and padlocked. As a result of the crowds and the full privy, there’s catholes everywhere (many of them poorly dug) and TP scattered everywhere.
—
So, I just discovered tn that my portable charger did that fun thing where it didn’t charge even though it’s plugged in. Wonderful. Hopefully I can charge it at Newfound Gap. Otherwise I’m left with 12% battery to last me through the rest of the smokes and coordinate my parents picking me up.
Ugh. This is not what I need right now. I’m pretty over everything.
Sun 29
⁃ Stay at Spence Field Shelter (2014.7) – Sun 29
The trail always provides. Mulligan, a section hiker that shiitake and I previously met at Cosby knob while he was heading north, offered me a portable charger. Of course, I obliged, after making sure he really didn’t need the charge. With the charge, I refilled my phone to ~60% and also revived my portable charger, tricking it back into thinking it was full (which it already was, but it thought it was dead).
Turns out he then hiked to standing near farm and then got dropped at clingman’s dome to then hike south from there.
Mon 30
⁃ Stay at Cable Gap Shelter
Hazy again today. Thankfully basically no rain for my descent from the smokies.
Also, I think I was in the smokies for just under 72 hours, but I’ll have to check the garmin tracking to verify exactly when I entered (I left at 3:50). Arbitrary metric, but that’d mean I did 71.5 mi in under 72 hours, so just over 1 mph, even including sleeping (by sleepwalking through the night, duh).
—
The Lone Peak (6?) All Weather high tops I switched to at Mountain Harbor have been kinda meh. First, they’re not even remotely waterproof—wet leaves resulted in soaked feet. Second, they’re just as (non-) grippy as my old lone peaks. Third, the ankle “support” is really just ankle constriction. Fourth—and most importantly—their lesser padding and heavier weight has been pretty hard on my ankles and knees on the descents. So needless to say, I’m looking forward to switching back to my old blue Mont Blancs when I meet my parents. I also ordered a new pair of Mont Blanc BOA’s since the warranty claim was approved (and they gave me a code for any one free pair of shoes from their website). Hopefully the BOA laces help reduce the pinch points I’ve dealt with on the Mont Blancs. Purportedly, they also have a slightly refined heel, which I expect I’ll appreciate.
—
Drank from quite possibly the most disgusting water source yet: a pee colored and pee tasting stagnant pool. At least filtering it seems to have slightly reduced the color, and when covered with the taste of liquid iv, it’s not that bad. Having to sip it throughout my descent from the smokies was kinda disgusting though.
—
The last few miles on this ridge were quite slow going since it was dark, wet, and rocky. While I did end up sharing the shelter, Dancer, my sheltermate, was great, and was especially welcoming even with my late arrival.
Tue 31
⁃ Stay at Franklin, NC Airbnb (via NOC)
Found a broken fiber in my filter today. Not the fiber that was kinked when I first received the filter, but a different loose fiber on the opposite side. I have no idea how it occured, since I’ve literally babied this filter. Hopefully I don’t get sick from that sketchy pee water I drank yesterday…because my filter may have been broken at the time.
If I wasn’t finishing so soon, I’d be pretty annoyed, and looking at switching to a Sawyer Squeeze because of how many issues I’ve had with the BeFree.
Thankfully though, I’m meeting my parents tonight, and they should be bringing my spare filter cartridge.
Since all of today’s water sources are reasonably well protected piped springs—combined with the likelyhood I’ve been running with a broken fiber without issue (or sickness) for a while—I decided to not bother digging the AquaTabs out of the bottom of my bag to treat this water nor the other water sources today.
—
Since my parents were running late to the pickup point at the NOC—and I was craving real food as I was descending into the NOC—I decided to have dinner at the restaraunt at the NOC while waiting for them. I’d been craving mac and cheese since Hot Springs, so I knew that’d be one of my sides. Secondly, the steak pipued my interest, but its price disuaded me until I saw the option of a steak sandwich. Finally, the Sherpa rice sounded especially interesting, as a rice and sauce entree with lentils, which is also available as a side. In the end, I ended up ordering a steak sandwich with sides of mac and cheese and sherpa rice.
While looking over the menu, I though I should check when my parents would arrive, and whether they’d make it in time to join for dinner, or if they’d like me to order anything off the menu for carry-out. Since the restaraunt closing soon at 7 pm (or at least presumably the kitchen closing then), their ETA would’ve prevented them from sitting down and ordering directly, but was still early enough that they could have dinner if I ordered ahead for them.
Combined with what I already ordered, they also got a chicken ceasar wrap, a trout cake sandwich, and a side order of mixed vegatables.
The food didn’t end up being anything special, but at least the sandwich menu (of which we ordered three of), was reasonably priced for moderately large portions. The dish I was least impressed by was the Sherpa Rice. It ended up just essentially being a way to dress up a somewhat dry and boring rice pilaf with a little bit of sauce and the alure of lentils and barley. I’ll give it a 5/10, since it was at least an attempt at something different, but I think there are better options, for sides. The mac and cheese and mixed vegatables were better, but again, nothing special—I’d give them each a 6/10. The trout cake sandwich and chicken ceasar wrap were each respectable, so I’d give them each a 7/10. The steak sandwich was excellent for its price, but I could do with a bit more flavor on the sandwich, the bun wasn’t very warm or fresh tasting, and the steak seemed a little overcooked for the medium rare that I’d ordered, but for the price, and the overall sandwich, it was pretty great: 8/10.
—
Turns out my parents didn’t bring the extra BeFree water filter cartridge :(. Probably my fault for assuming it was packed, when they weren’t even aware they had an extra one.
Wed 1
⁃ Stay at Franklin, NC Airbnb (via Wayah Bald Trailhead Parking)
Thu 2
⁃ Stay at Franklin, NC Airbnb (via Mooney Gap)
Passed though “Swinging Dick Gap” today. I couldn’t help but chuckle and get a picture of the sign.
As it unfortunately turns out, it’s actually “Swinging Lick Gap”, but someone has vandalized the sign to turn the L into a D. I’m all in favor of the modification, since we could all use a little bit of humor sometimes.
—
Also passed over “Big Butt” today, as indicated by a label on the map. Seems like today is the day for silly names for things. I’m all in favor of a little bit of humor while we’re on trail.
Fri 3
⁃ Stay at Franklin, NC Airbnb (via Dick’s Ck Gap)
Welp, I can check “getting my leg humped by a hunting dog” off of my AT bucket list…
I crossed paths with Tank, a northbound section hiker that was joined by two lost hunting dogs, one of which was in the mood to hump anything it could. Including my leg, the other dog, a tree, and Tank’s leg. Both of them were rather energetic and pulled at my (thankfully already ripped) red sweater while talking with Tank.
Tank got a voicemail box when trying to contact their owner, so I’d recommended he tie them off when he gets picked up at Rock Gap, based on what other hikers did previously when we met a hunter before starting our aqua blaze.
Sat 4
⁃ Stay at Cleveland, GA Airbnb (via Unicoi Gap)
While hiking towards Standing Indian Mountain, I was approached and then followed by a sweet little white, brown, and black hunting dog. When I was stopping for a break, I called the owner noted on the dog’s collar. He said they were hunting below the trail and to turn her loose and call him back if she kept following me.
This is at least the 8th instance of a lost dog. Most of them hunting dogs, but not all of them.
Combined with the issues I’ve had with dogs running at me, I’m getting pretty annoyed with the numerous issues stemming from off leash dogs. Everyone thinks their perfect little dog isn’t the problem—but that’s the problem in and of itself.
—
After another half mile or so of following behind me, I lost track of her, presumably to return to where they she and her owner hunting.
Sun 5
⁃ Stay at Cleveland, GA Airbnb (via Neel’s Gap)
About two miles S of the trailhead along the road, we passed a set of fire trucks fighting a small fire on the hillside below the road. Hopefully that doesn’t majorly affect the hike today. Surely, if I would be walking into a forest fire, there’d be someone or a sign warning me at the trailhead, right?
—
And indeed, aside from a little bit of a damp campfire smell from the fire and light haze from the other fires in the area, the hike was indeed fire free.
My parents said that when they drove past later in the day, the fire trucks were packing up and the fire was out.
Mon 6
⁃ Stay at Cleveland, GA Airbnb (via Cooper’s Gap)
One of my smart water bottles finally got a hole in it. Whenever I stop for lunch I’ll dig through my bag and patch it with tenacious tape. Or maybe I’ll just duct tape it, since it only has to last today and tomorrow, and then I’m done (woah, that’s crazy to think about).
Never had this issue with my Life Water bottles, which also didnt have any issues with the lids leaking. Do with that what you will.
—
Some well intentioned day hiker seems to have left a few snacks at the Blood Mtn shelter, presumably for other hikers. Bad plan. You’re liable to accidentally feed a wild bear (or other wild animal) and habituate them to food. If you want to give hikers snacks, give it to them directly on trail, or do trail magic at a trail head.
—
I’ve packed out a stupid amount of tissues already—probably at least 20—in just 4.5 mi of hiking thus far. Not to mention a bunch of other random trash, a spam can someone tried to burn, a tent stake, and a plastic backpacking fork from a campsite I walked by. People. Pack out your damn trash.
Also bury your damn poop and TP. Away from camp. Please. I went to pick up a piece of tissue near that campsite full of trash, before realizing my mistake (actually their mistake).
And your menstrual hygiene products too. Please. I had to pack out a tampon applicator and a pad. I doubt that is from a day hiker.
—
While waiting for my parents, I watched the sunset illuminate the sky with a multitude of colors, and a pair of bats dance circles around the opening in the trees above.
—
As I’d feared would happen at some point with the various forest service roads leading to many of the trailheads, the route Google Maps reccomended to the Cooper’s Gap trailhead was impassable for their Tesla. thankfully, both them and I had service, and I was able to reach them and give them another route to try once they got bsck to pavement.
Thankfully, that route was mostly paved, with the last 0.8 mi a well maintained gravel road.
Tue 7
⁃ Stay at Cleveland, GA Airbnb (via USFS 42, after summiting Springer Mountain)
It feels like I was setting up my tent in Baxter State Park just last week, but it’s been almost five months and thirteen (?) states since I officially started this adventure.
While I’ve had a detailed plan leading all the way to Springer Mountain, this final day has seemed so distant until today. Perhaps it’s my perserverant mindset that I only think about one day at a time, one climb at a time—or even just one step at a time, or perhaps it’s my mind trying to distract myself from the though of really, truly returning to the “normalcy” of real life.
Whatever the case, I can’t ignore the music any longer. I have about 10 miles between where I’m getting dropped off and where I complete this chapter of my life and begin the next.
—
What was supposed to be a quick privy (poop) stop at the Hawk Mountain Shelter eneded up being an hour long endeavor. While passing the shelter, I smelled a distinct campfire smell, and initally assumed it was just a lingering smell from a recently put out fire, and continued on to the privy. Upon returning, I thought I might’ve felt some heat coming off of the campfire, and upon investigation, I found an entire log was left smoldering, along with the rest of the fire pit containing smoldering coals among the ashes.
I still had about 1 L of water, and the next on-trail water was about 3 mi away, so I spread the coals as best I could and slowly doused the log and colas, using all but 200 mL of my water. I then decided to take a snack break, proud of the work I did. However, afterwards I still felt heat coming off of the fire, and realized it was not fully out yet. So, I ended up using the rest of the water I had (the reserved 200 mL). I’d debated whether to continue on towards that next on-trail water, or to detour to the shelter water source, an additional 0.1 mi past the shelter.
I decided to collect water here, in case the terrain was more difficult than expected or if the source was dry. I’d initally went the wrong way while looking for the trail to the water, and instead found a Walmart bag full of trash hanging from a tree. Welp, guess I’ll pack that out.
After realing I was on the wrong trail, finding the trail, and heading down it, I decided to collect whatever extra water I could carry, to ensure the fire was out cold. So, in addition to the two bottles I had for drinking, I also had 1 L in my filter bag and ~400 mL in my scoop that I carried back up to the shelter to make sure that fire was out cold. It was good I did, since there was definitely still heat coming off of it until I put that additional 1.4 L on it.
With the especially dry conditions, the risk of wildfire is especially high, and it only takes a good gust of wind and a good ignition source—just look at the forest fire near Hiawassee and the small brush fire that was being extinguished a few mornings ago.
With my firefighting duties complete, I switched my focus to trash collecting duty, checking the bear boxes for any abandoned trash. Lo and behold, I found an even more full Walmart bag of trash in one of the bear boxes. “At least these people left it in the bear box rather than out where wildlife could get to it,” I thought as I mentally cursed their carelessness and delicately packed their trash into my bag to carry out.
In total, the Hawk Mountain stop ended up adding over an hour to my ETA, rather than the 10-15 I’d initally planned on.
—
These last few miles of trail are by far the most well maintained and manicured I’ve seen in the entirety of the AT. Really, the last 50 miles are beautiful trail, save a mile or so with some some rock steps and minor wear on the ascent on Blood Mountain.
Compared to the trail us SOBO’s started out (Katahdin, root hell, and a month of monsoons), I no longer feel at all bad for the NOBOS and their whining. Or for calling the southernmost section of the trail the “NOBO training wheels” section of the trail.
—
I decided to have an early lunch at Long Creek Falls, about 0.1 mi off trail from the AT (along the Benton McKaye Trail).
While having lunch—a trailmade cajun salmon salad sandwich— below the falls, I though about the much longer stop at Hawk Mountain Shelter, and I’m now leaning against doing the approach trail after summiting Springer, and instead backtracking back to FS 42, where my parents are meeting me to hike the last mile of the AT together.
—
While waiting at FS 42, my parents got to talking with another backpacker and some other people that was at the trailhead. We’d coordinated to meet at FS 42 to hike the last mile together, somewhat in a way to honor their involvement and support throughout my thru hike.
Upon my arrival at the trailhead, I got a warm welcome and a congratulations for finishing. As is typical for me, I reminded them I’m not done yet and still have another mile before I finish.
While repacking my bag, I offloaded the bag of trash I collected, and talked briefly about the trash I packed out and the fire I put out. As it turns out, the other backpacker was a former ridgerunner, and thanked me for my efforts in helping maintain the trail.
I also told my parents my plans not to do the approach trail, and instead descend back down to where we were, that is to head home (or rather back to the Airbnb from the FS 42 parking lot rather than splitting up with them because of the longer stop at the shelter.
—
While hiking up to Springer Mountain, my parents and I ran into Low Gear and Meat Wagon on their way down. Needless to say, we exchanged congratulations and wished eachother the best. The also asked whether they could see the photos I’ve taken while hiking. I directed them to the blog (this blog), where they could find links to the photo album with all my pictures—many of them bad, since I’m just uploading everything I take, rather than taking the time to go through and curate and post just the best ones (that day will come eventually (TM)).
—
And that’s a wrap y’all. I successfully thru-hiked the Appalachian Trail. The real accomplishment though is my ability to correctly spell the word “Appalachian” without googling it. A close second was my learning how to pronounce the northern terminus, “Katahdin.”
In all seriousness though, it’s been an amazing experience that I’ll remember for the rest of my life—even if I couldn’t remember what I had for breakfast in the morning or recall what shelter I stayed at the night before whenever someone asks.
Looking back, there’s many things to appreciate about my experience, like the friends I made along the way, a reinforcement of my love for the outdoors, an increased level of in confidence in my abilities, and the motivation to travel light and more be willing to go without some things if it means I can do and see more.
Perhaps though, the most meaningful thing I’ve gained from the hike is a matter of perspective. In transitioning back into the real world, I find myself apreciating what I had previously taken for granted. I increasingly find myself staring out the car window, just watching the world go by, apreciating the natural beauty of every hillside, valley, and field I pass, each unique in their own way. Simmilarly, apreciating a small act of kindness from a stranger that I’d otherwise have been ignorant to. Or being willing to take a step back and see things in the bigger picture.
Leave a Reply